Yvonne Baur is a former member of Team HPPA at our Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park store locations. She left HPPA to study volcanoes as a full time university student and volcano tour guide. She is also a a committed hiker in the park, and shared this post with us from one of her incredible long hikes in the backcountry. If this sounds intriguing to you, some tips and rules are included here.
Hilina = struck (as by wind)
Pali = cliff
Hilina Pali = "windy cliff"
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The coastal backcountry of Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park is a special place: hot, windy, and no shade. The few trees in this hostile area are mostly dead, the bleached-out branches standing like skeletal sentinels braving the winds. Shade is sparse to non-existent, and the whipping wind can be so strong that it literally makes you lose your balance. It is dry out there. Very dry, desert dry. Enough water is absolutely essential.
After a prolonged ankle injury, I finally felt comfortable enough to explore the Kaʻu Desert below Hilina Pali again. I have always enjoyed the hike down the pali to Kaʻaha Point and beyond; the vast expanse of scenery unfolding is simply beyond words. I was yearning to go on a trip to the coastal backcountry; it had been a long time.
Going down the pali was not easy; much of the trail consisted of loose lava rubble and steep switchbacks. In addition, the grasses were pretty overgrown, and it was often impossible to see loose rocks on the trail. Still, I truly love the area with its harsh environment. The crashing waves along the shore create a stark contrast to the almost lifeless area with dried grasses, old lava flows, and a sun so hot that it shoots heat arrows into your back and tries to break you. This place is no place for the unprepared; it is a place for adventures.
I really enjoy going there, even though the 1,600-foot climb back to the top of the pali is cruel and drains me of all my energy. But looking back to the place where I have been along the coastline, I would do it again without any hesitation.
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Mahalo for sharing your hike experience and photos with all of us, Yvonne!
Visiting Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park? Take a drive to the Hilina Pali Overlook.
Shop the park here.
Feeling the hike? Here is some park information about Kaʻaha:
Ka‘aha is located on the southern coastline of the park, 3.6 miles from the trailhead at the end of Hilina Pali road. The hike begins with a steep downhill trail that switches back 24 times to the base of the pali (cliff). Along the trail you will be hiking through mostly non-native grasses dotted with native ‘ōhi‘a trees. Two thirds of the way down you will find your only chance for shade on this hot, dry, windy trail under a large ‘ōhi‘a tree.
The rest of the hike is a gradual downhill slope to the coast. Ka‘aha has a rocky shoreline with a well protected cove that has some great snorkeling. You may find green turtles swimming in the cove, or resting on the shore. There are no trees in the area to provide shade, but the shelter on the hillside is a nice place to get out of the elements. Ants are extremely abundant, although they do not bite, or sting, but they will crawl on anything (including you) on the ground. The trail out is uphill the entire way and feels like five miles in the intense sun. We recommend you avoid hiking in the mid-day sun.
Ka‘aha can be accessed from several trailheads:
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Hilina Pali Overlook Trailhead via Hilina Pali Trail and Ka‘aha Trail 3.6 mi (5.8 km)
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Mau Loa o Maunaulu Trailhead via Keauhou Trail, Hilina Pali Trail, and Ka‘aha Trail 11.5 mi (18.2 km)
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Puʻuloa Trailhead via the Puna Coast Trail, Keauhou Trail, Hilina Pali Trail, and Ka‘aha Trail 17.4 mi (28.0 km)
Campers may stay a maximum of 3 consecutive nights per site. A total of 16 hikers are allowed per night at Ka`aha. (GPS Coordinates: 19.26196, -155.30367)
Register
All eight backcountry campsites (Ka‘aha, Halapē, Keauhou, ‘Āpua Point, Nāpau, Pepeiao Cabin, Red Hill Cabin and Mauna Loa Cabin) and all offsite/dispursed backcountry camping require a permit.
Be Prepared
Facilities
Ka'aha, Halapē, and Keauhou have three-walled primitive shelters where hikers may enjoy a respite from the sun. Water caught off the roofs of these shelters are stored in adjacent catchment tanks (check with rangers when you obtain your permit for current water levels -- water is NOT always available and there are no streams in the area). TREAT water obtained from catchment tanks before drinking. Please use the composting toilet. Do not put trash in the toilet - pack all trash out.
Leave No Trace
Hikers are required to pack out everything they pack in. Do not bury or discard trash in pit toilets - Pack it out, practice Leave No Trace camping.

