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Stand in the Hawaiian cloudforest and close your eyes. The whirrr whirrr whirr of ʻapapane wings above you is a signature sound of the native forest. These striking red, black, and white birds (Himatione sanguinea) are constantly on the move, seeking the nectar of ʻōhiʻa lehua flowers. Small flocks work the canopy, restless and determined. A side development of this continual travel among the blossoms is that this is one of the most important pollinators of the native forest. ʻApapane chatter fills the trees all day, although the hour before sunset seems to swell the chorus. In the Hawaiian creation chant, The Kumulipo, the ʻapapane was one of the first beings born into the world.

The mosquito, capable of carrying deadly diseases between birds, arrived as larvae in the water barrels of whalers stopping over in Hawaiʻi in the early 1800s. Its arrival coincided with the introduction of birds (and their diseases) from all over the world by the new, primarily Western, arrivals to the islands, and once established contributed to a perfect storm of Hawaiian bird extinctions. To experience our forest birds now, you must climb the slopes of the volcanoes to pass through the bellies of the lowest clouds at about 4,000 to 5,000 feet above sea level. There, you may be treated to the sights and sounds of some of these most precious residents of the Hawaiian archipelago. 

Read more: Whirr vs. Whine, Hawaiʻi Birds and the Catastrophic Arrival of the Mosquito

Hi, my name is Kiry Galapir. I joined HPPA at Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park in 2007, just before an eruption of Kīlauea Volcano!

I began as a sales staff member, and dedicated 10 years to assisting visitors and promoting park-related products. I now hold the position of E-commerce Specialist and Wholesale Representative for HPPA. I manage sales and customer service activities “behind the scenes”, focusing on e-commerce operations and wholesale partnerships. When you place an online order, I am the one who makes sure you get your package.

Here’s a walk-through of the order fulfillment process at the HPPA online warehouse:

Read more: This Is Where The Packing Happens

Kathy English and Margot Griffith served as both regular employees and as Hawaii Natural History Association (HNHA)/Hawaiʻi Pacific Park Association (HPPA) executive directors from 1976  to 2021. HNHA rebranded to HPPA in 2011. This interview was conducted jointly with them during the yearlong celebration of HPPA’s 90th anniversary. HPPA administrative headquarters are located inside Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park (HAVO).

The Beginning

Kathy: I started in March of 1976 and had previously been working at Volcano Art Center on their board and part time in the gallery as bookkeeper/treasurer. I was initially hired by HNHA to take care of the Hawaiʻi Volcanoes park library. In 1977 I opted to stick with just HNHA; I went from an administrative assistant to a business manager, and some years later to the executive director. I was the first to have that title.

Margot: January 15, 1987, was my first day—the day before the expanded Jaggar Museum and HNHA park store was dedicated at Hawaiʻi Volcanoes. I had been working at Volcano Art Center, a kid out of college with an English degree. I was hired as frontline part time at Jaggar, the second person to be hired at there, and I was also Kathyʻs assistant. The opening of the Jaggar Museum store really changed things for HNHA and that may have been the association’s first million dollar (grossing) year.

Read more: From HNHA To HPPA With Kathy English and Margot Griffith

Some backstory:

Congress authorized Hawai’i National Park on August 1, 1916, as the twelfth U.S. National Park. Also, that year, the National Park Service was established to manage the growing list of federal national parks.

By 1920, it became apparent that the newly minted park rangers could not furnish all the help and information needed and wanted by the ever-increasing numbers of the visiting public. People wanted trail maps and bird guides. They wanted walking sticks and backpacks. They wanted to know about the park they were in, to really understand it. That year the Yosemite Museum Association was founded to develop a museum and visitor contact station in Yosemite National Park.

Read more: What Is This 90 For 90 All About?

There they were! I’d spotted the dark shapes of the flying foxes hanging by their feet in the ironwood trees by Pago Pago Bay. I’m always amazed and thrilled to see these large native fruit bats (peʻa) when I visit the Samoan Islands. Later that day I saw them soaring overhead with their three-foot wingspan exceeding that of the white-tailed tropic birds gliding alongside.

I’d come to the islands for three weeks to visit both American Samoa and (Western) Samoa. In 2007-08 I served in the Peace Corps in a small village on ʻUpolu Island. I had an amazing adventure and became part of my Samoan family. In the spring of 2023, I was finally able to visit for the first time since the islands’ borders were closed for more than two years due to the worldwide pandemic. The half hour flight from Apia to American Samoa was highlighted by stunning views of the coral reefs and aqua seas below.

Read more: Three Weeks In Samoa, by guest blogger Donna Barr

Aloha, my name is Keith, and I am on the HPPA team at two of our Haleakalā National Park store locations, on the island of Maui. I learned about the Slimbridge Wildfowl and Wetlands Trust in our training at Haleakalā National Park about the history of the park captive nēnē breeding program.

The staff were absolutely ecstatic about the Makana the Nēnē Plush I brought for them. They want to add Makana to their store as they have many plush toys. I also took our Kahoʻokele Petrel Plush and shared our remarkable story of success on Maui, especially since they lay only one egg a season. I took national park brochures and HPPA membership brochures with me, along with chocolate-covered macadamia nuts.

Read more: Keith and the English Nēnē

The Next Generation

All of the carvings we see at Puʻuhonua o Hōnaunau today are a modern recreation and restoration of what was once there. In 1823 the original kiʻi were removed by William Ellis, who then auctioned them off in Prussia to collectors. He fortunately made a lithograph first, which is now the park's best reference material. The site fell into disrepair in the 1800s, and restoration efforts started back up with the National Park Service in the 1960s. Chief among carvers for the restoration was Anton Akoni Grace, who came from a line of South Kona carvers nine generations long. Because Ellis’s journals describe the original carvings and scene in detail, the many-year restoration project felt accurate, and by 1971, Hale o Keawe and the heiau on which it stands were complete. Several carvers worked under Grace, including the venerable Sam Kaʻai from Maui. As has always been tradition, all of the trees were large ʻōhiʻa found and collected on nearby slopes.

Read more: From Tree to Kiʻi, The Transformation: Part 2 of 2

The Transformation

Let us take ourselves back, say, 500 years ago, when a solemn group of people stood in the cool, deep forest on the flank of one of Hawaiʻi Island’s volcanoes. A massive ʻōhiʻa tree rose before them high into the shifting green of the canopy. Deeply resilient, impressively patient, ʻōhiʻa trees are able to generate even on barren lava flows and slowly grow to massive proportions as the ecosystem builds around them. Birdsong looped through the branches. A ritual began with chant and offerings. This tree, eight to ten feet in circumference and an elder of the Hawaiian forest, was about to be transformed. After being cut with gratitude and skillfully carved onsite, then carefully transported downslope to the village on the coast, it might stand on or near a heiau, a Hawaiian temple. Wherever the new carving was to be placed, it would now be tasked with the important job of holding the mana, the life force, of a Hawaiian god whose powers and attributes would contribute to that location and undertaking. It would become a kiʻi.

Read more: From Tree to Kiʻi, The Transformation: Part 1 of 2

Most young adults have no idea how one becomes a national park service ranger.  
 
The Big Island of Hawaiʻi is home to four national park sites including massive Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park (HVNP). Despite this density of parks in the island community, most island teens grow up unsure how to begin national parks careers. The National Park Service structure can look intimidating from the outside and the processes for hiring seem complex, with layers and levels and different statuses, permanent and seasonal positions, terms of one or four years. Getting to that uniform seems hard and confusing. Most teens turn to simpler jobs and forget about the park service. That youthful energy and idealism becomes directed elsewhere. 

Read more: So You Want To Be A National Park Ranger

National park sites in Hawaiʻi protect more than famous lava flows, beaches, waterfalls and lush forests. In Hawaiʻi, national parks also protect and preserve Native Hawaiian cultural sites rich with meaning, history, and even mystery. One of the most intriguing mysteries swirls around the meanings of those most Hawaiian of symbol systems: petroglyphs.

Petroglyphs are shapes made by pecking into stone using very hard rock tools to break through the shiny volcanic crust of a lava field. In pre-contact Hawaiʻi, where there was no writing, no paper and ink, petroglyphs may have been meaning-laden public messages, possibly a way to commemorate a place, event, or person. The word for petroglyphs in Hawaiian: kiʻi pokahu.

Read more: Stone Stories: The Mystery and History of Hawaiian Petroglyphs